What works, what is safe and what is the difference between chemical and not chemical? We have sorted out the question marks and given some examples below. There is nothing better than a t-shirt and a hat and below are some surprising truths about sunscreens:

1. There is no consensus on whether sunscreens prevent skin cancer

2. There is some evidence that sunscreens might increase the deadliest form of skin cancer for some people

3. There are more high SPF products than ever before, but no proof that they are better

4. Too little sun might be harmful, reducing the body’s vitamin D levels

5. The common sunscreen ingredient vitamin A may speed the development of cancer

Mainstream or “chemical” sunscreens work by using chemicals to absorb UVB and UVA rays. Drawback: People are sometimes sensitive to the chemicals.

*Natural or “barrier” sunscreens use the active ingredients titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to form a barrier between the skin and the sun. Drawback: Natural sunscreens often look really white and thick when you put them on and take a while to absorb (not always the best look, I admit). Chemical sunscreens with synthetic active ingredients need time to be effective — up to 30 minutes. That’s because chemical sunscreens have to soak into the skin before they begin to work. Furthermore, sunscreen chemicals have been found to pass through the skin and mimic the effects of estrogen, which may disrupt the delicate balance of the body´s natural hormones.

So, are natural sun screens completely safe? The shocking truth is the fact that both chemical sunscreens (avobenzone, methoxycinnamate, padimate-o and the like) and physical sunblocks (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) have been found to generate free radicals when exposed to sunlight, which then can attack the nuclei of your skin cells and cause mutations. That´s right: they can cause skin cancer.

So, what is our advice? Use natural sunscreen, they are for sure better than the chemical ones, in our opinion. Our favorite and natural sunscreen is from The Organic Pharmacy.

To summarize; keep these “safety tips” from the Environmental Working Group in mind for the coming sunny season;

• Avoid the sunscreen chemical oxybenzone, a synthetic estrogen that penetrates the skin and contaminates the body. Look for active ingredients zinc, titanium, avobenzone or Mexoryl SX.
• Sprays and powders cloud the air with tiny particles of sunscreen that may not be safe to breathe. Choose creams instead.
• New government data show that tumors and lesions develop sooner on skin coated with vitamin A-laced  creams. Vitamin A, listed as “retinyl palmitate” on the ingredient label,  is in 33 percent of sunscreens. Avoid them.
• SPF 50+ does not provide longer-term protection when you’re in the sun. Stick to SPF 15-50+, reapply often and pick a product based on your own skin, time planned  outside, shade and cloud cover.

A few weeks ago we met the author; Katarina Johansson, at Spadagarna, and we got inspired to find out more about her book “Badskumt”. In our everyday life we use so many products that are filled with environmental hazardous and damaging substances. We apply products to our skin that contain ingredients that are known for causing allergies. We use perfumes that can affect the hormonal system and we use sunscreen that can hurt our DNA. Isn’t this crazy? Or are we making too much fuzz about this? What do you think? Feel free to share your view on this matter in the comments field below.

Even though not all chemicals are dangerous we still know very little about the cocktail effect; What happens when we mix hundreds of chemicals every day on our skin? And this is where Katarina’s expertise comes in.

Interview with Katarina:

What is your background? Katarina: I used to work for the National Swedish TV, and I used to do a lot of documentary films. But I have also always had a great interest for environmental issues and I have studied environmental journalism.

What made you write the book? Katarina: I think it all started when I was studying Environmental Science at university and we had a marine biologist visiting, who really inspired me to learn more about all the chemicals we apply on the skin and what it does for us and for the nature. I wanted to learn more, but could not really find a lot of material or information on this subject. I read the book “Hemliga kocken*” (a book about all the “hidden ingredients” in the food and what our processed food actually contains) and that is when I got the idea to my book; Badskumt. I wanted to compile information and write an informative book about what our cosmetics contain and what the ingredients actually do for us and for the nature.

Were there any difficulties while researching and writing the book and how long did it take? Katarina: It took me 2 years to finish the book, from start to print. While doing the research I felt that there is a lot of information that is missing out there. Also the information about hazardous ingredients in the cosmetic industry can be interpreted in many different ways. Different countries also have different guidelines and recommendations and limitations to how to use and handle all the chemicals.

While researching, did you see any differences among countries? Could you see any countries that stand out more when it comes to cosmetics and concern about the environment? Katarina: I would say Denmark appears a lot in these discussions, and they are also more cautious in their recommendations and advice regarding the use of chemical ingredients in beauty products. In Denmark there is also a greater concern about avoiding certain chemicals in cosmetics during pregnancy.

What area do you think is the most important to be cautious about? Katarina: My main suggestion would be to be careful with hair coloring, which contains a lot of chemicals. But also to generally cut down on the number of products in your bathroom. Even though not all the chemicals in your cosmetic products are hazardous for you or for the environment we know very little about the effect when hundreds of them are mixed together. I have also started to use solid hand soap instead of liquid hand soap, as there is no need for preservatives in a solid had soap.

Unfortunately this book is so far only published in Swedish, but if you would like to get in touch with the author, you can find a “Badskumt” – profile on Facebook.

We often get requests from spa owners and operators that they want to create their own bespoke product line and many do, but it isn’t always that easy!

“Our own product line, perfect for us and it would make us unique!” is thought that has crossed many spa mangers, owners, operators minds, and it is absolutely true. But, be prepared…

…it takes more time than you think

…it is more complicated than you think

…it costs more than you expected

If you still want to go ahead, then here are a couple of wise advice from us (having created own lines for AmanSpas, Jiva (Taj) spas, One&Only Spas, Auriga (Capella) spas and our own LivNordic wellness brand).

1. First you need to be very clear on what you want, for example a special theme/concept, natural vs. not natural, medical vs. pampering etc. and compile this in a product tender brief. Do you want the creating company to also choose packaging, what is the quantity etc. Be specific!

Tip1! Ask for a final liter cost price from the companies – it can be a “to-from” price, but then you have capped the purchase cost. If you don’t do this from the start, then you are up for a nasty surprise. We have seen this over and over again!

2. Once you know exactly what you want, you send out your tender to selected companies and when you get the proposals you will see that they vary considerably, and it is time to start negotiate. Go for it, it often works!

Tip2! Decide which one to go with combining your business mind and gut feeling. If indecisive, go with your stomach, it never lies.

3. When you come as far as selecting and having an agreement signed, then it is time for the selected company to start developing and wait for the first samples to arrive.

Tip3! Once you get them, make sure that you have prepared a selection of people of varying origin, gender and age to trial them and have a form ready for them to fill out in order to give the product company comprehensive feedback for the next round of samples. You do this as many times as needed before you are 100% satisfied with the samples.

4. Meanwhile you should have been looking at packaging and that is almost the trickiest part! Most packaging companies wants you to purchase quantities of 20,000 of one size, you can get away with as little as 3,000 but if you are just one spa or even up to 4 spas, this is still too many. This means that your choice is very limited to companies that supply a small amount, and you have to be very creative with the labeling as the bottles and jars on offer are very standard.

5. You have your products, jars and labels and you are happy. If you reach this stage, then it has most likely taken you about 12 months or more and you are tired, but happy as you are finally on your way!

Tip 4! We strongly recommend starting with body products and then possibly going for facial products, but as the technology, laws and research is changing by the second, it might be better to keep the facial line with a professional licensed line.

I am not even going to get into licensing and the challenges and loopholes with getting products into different countries, don’t forget to look into that too! China for example, you will have to ship product and empty bottles separately and then have them filled there…Egypt, well, just don’t go to Egypt trying to get products in and well… just make sure you know what is needed for the region that you are in.

If you have questions or comments, feel free to e-mail us questions! We would be happy to advice you not to the same mistakes we have done!

//Anna

Raison d’Etre has always been in the forefront when it comes to natural and organic skin care. Below is a good summary of some of the ingredients that we do not want to see in our skin care.

List by http://www.mercolahealthyskin.com/